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125g Malawi Tank - Aquaterra Background And More...

13K views 34 replies 8 participants last post by  harveyb27 
#1 ·
I'm bored of the holey rock i have in the current 55g setup, so want a change. I decided i want a 125g and most of the plans are now in motion. I recently bought a 60x24inch aquaterra background, which is the backbone of this project. I will get a Juwel Rio 400 (59x20x24") soon and I am still in the process of aquiring the rock and other stuff. Feel free to share your comments and give some insight/advice as i put it all together!...

Here are some pictures of the background:
(PLEASE CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTGRAPHS)

Front:



From the left:



From the right:



Top:



Behind:



Close-ups:

 
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15
#3 ·
I have debated this for quite some time now. Whether or not i should stock haps/peacocks or mbuna. I have never kept peacock's before, though i can see why people keep them. In the very beginning of brain-storming this tank i intended to stock mbuna, so decided to stick with that route. Part of the reason why i chose to use this background was to mimic the rocky mbuna habitat...

I haven't completely decided what species i will have in the 125g. I have the following fish in a 55g and 30g, though most of them are fry/juvies. The majority will be moved to the 125g:

14 Pseudotropheus Demasoni "Pombo Rocks" (2-4cm)
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lions Cove" (2-3")
6 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point" (2-4")
5 Labeotropheus Trewavasae "Chilumba" (3-5cm)
5 Cynotilapia sp. Hara "Gallireya Reef" (2-4cm)
5 Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" (2-4cm)

I'm also interested in the following species, incase i change my mind about some of the species above:

Metriaclima sp. Msobo "Magunga"
Cynotilapia sp. Mbamba "Mphanga Rocks"
 
#4 ·
The demansoni's and the yellow labs would look awesome along with that background. In fact the current stocking list is going to look very nice once they grow out to adult size. Be sure to add some regular rock as caves and such too. Cant wait for this to be set up!

What are you going to use for filtration?
 
#5 ·
I have looked everywhere for rocks that match the background. Its always so fustrating when you know what you want but cannot find it anywhere. I came across some Pagoda rock in a lfs that was quite close to the background, and I'm waiting to get some this week from a new order.

As far as filtration goes... I plan on hiding all the pipework, intakes/outakes, heaters etc. behind the background.

Fluval FX5 (filters 2300 lph via twin outlet) - primary filtration.
Eheim 2227 (filters 550 lph via spray bar) - oxygenated biological filter with wave effect flow.
Fluval 405 (filters 1023 lph via twin outlet) - for extra flow and media surface.


3 uptakes, 4 outlets and one spray bar. Total combined circulation - 8 times per hour.

The fluval FX5 already has two directional outlets which are going to be used to direct flow from the right side (to the left) of the tank. The fluval 405 originally has one outlet, though with the use of pvc piping the flow will be split into two paths. The first is out of the background and to the front of the tank (in the centre), and the other will be kept behind the background to direct flow towards the fluval FX5 intake. The eheim spray bar will be positioned at the top left for increased surface agitation as no outlets are positioned there. The eheim uptake is on the far left, the fluval 405 uptake is in the middle, and the FX5 uptake is on the far right (each uptake is close to a meshed hole in the background). I will use two 300w heaters, all positioned between an intake and a hole in the background. One next to the eheim intake (left) and the other next to the FX5 intake.

Diagram of filtration setup:
 
#6 ·
Holy Moses... You really got this planned out well! Let me guess, Engineering background? :wink:

All kidding aside, though, well thought out. I'm sure you've done your research, but just a point, since your're running three canister filters, you may want to dedicate them individually to increase efficiency in the three types of filtration (i.e, 2 biological, 1 mechanical or 2 mostly geared for bio, 1 geared for mech, etc, etc). Also, another point i've seen posted here before and i agree, is to place heaters near outakes or powerheads or other sources of water flow to increase efficency of heat distribution and avoid other possible problems...

All in all, WOW. Looks like a Museum display or an Aquaria habitat at Marineworld..

Keep posting your progress.. :thumb:
 
#7 ·
I'm a student studying in univeristy/college, im only 20 :lol: im no engineer. I've just had a lot of time to plan this. I've had a lot of advice on this forum which has helped a lot. Also got advice from others with 3D backgrounds.

The eheim 2227 is a biological wet/dry canister filter. Its rubbish for mechanical, so bio is its only use really. The 305 intake is positioned near the part of the background where a cave forms. The cave is quite deep, so i decided one of the holes in the background would be there. One benafit is that it will be hidden, as it will be on the roof of the cave area. The other positive is that the intake there will draw water from that area which will most likely have a lot of dirt settle there. The flow from its outake behind the background will also increase the flow drawn through this hole. The FX5 will be the force behind most of the mechanical and chemical filtration as the intake should draw a lot of water through the right hole. Hopefully i have this right. :thumb:

If the heating is not sufficient i may get a powerhead and aim it at one of the heaters, or alternatively i was advised that using an external heater would be good.
 
#9 ·
I was recommended the Hydor ETH 300w by others too. I found out it would not fit on the FX5 piping, people have used it on a 405, however they had to fix leaks because the connection is not perfect. Plus it would be difficult to adjust the temp if its was connected to the 405, as it will be positioned behind the tank in the centre. It would be a nightmare to reach over just to change the temp or fix a leak. I could use one on the eheim, but again i dont want to take the chances of having leaks and i dont really want to cut the pipework for the eheim, incase i change my mind.

I think i may get a Rena Smart Heater 300w, position and connect it to the intake of the eheim with an adapter. That way the water being pumped out the spray bar should provide heating for the left side. As for placing a heater on the right side, i was thinking of just using the standard 300w i will get with the tank. What do you think?
 
#10 ·
Well, as far as leaking issues are concerned, I haven't had any problems with my in-line and its connected to an EHEIM. And the heaters come with 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch connections which fit most pipes, and if not there are reducers/expander adapters that can tackle the diameter issue.

As far as ajustment or emergency work is concerned, I don't know exactly your setup with the stand and where the canister's will be situated, but with me, i placed the heater inside my cabinet with the EHEIM and other stuff hidden from sight but easily accessible.

The Rena Smart Heater is well reviewed, and realistically, that will probably work for you just as well. With good placement and using 2 good heaters (preferably submersible), it should be fine. The review section here is good, you just need to read ALL of the reviews to get the whole context of the performance of these products (some people don't know the meaning of an "objective" review). You may benefit from 2 thermometers as well.

Hope that helps.. :)

Out of pure curiosity, what floor of your flat/house will you be placing this beauty of a tank?
 
#11 ·
The tank will be in a house on the lowest possible level. The floor has held up against my 60g, and im more than sure it will be okay for the 125g. I have no basement so its the strongest support availiable.

I currently have around 70lbs of Caribsea Aragamax Select sand. Do you think this will be enough for a five-foot tank, considering that the background takes up a little floor space too? I want a 2-3" sand bed depth.
 
#12 ·
Hmm... thats a good question, I know that dry sand has the density of 100 lbs per cubic foot.

So it would be:
square feet value * (3"/12)= cubic feet
Cubic feet value * 100 lbs/cubic foot = total lbs
Total lbs / 50lbs (or whatever about they sell it by) = how many bags you need.

I would do a bit of research on it though, don't take my word for it (its been a LONG time since highschool math for me! :wink: )

I think your LFS guy should be able to help you with that, and after all, its not rocket science.. Buy a few extra, and I'm sure the LFS will take back 1 or 2 unopened bags... :D
 
#13 ·
I tried your "AQUATIC-EQUATIC-SAND-EQUATION" :lol: :thumb:

Final value i got was 3.33 bags. I had 3 bags but used about a third of one bag on the 30g grow out. I think the left over sand plus the other two bags should be enough for atleast a 2" sand bed. Im happy you provided that equation. I love doing maths lol

Im currently looking to see if anyone is selling the tank im looking for, so i can get it cheaper. I was supposed to go see one on monday which was in perfect condition (no scratches etc.) but it got sold the day before i was supposed to view it. :( If i dont find another one in good condition by next week im going to have to order a new one.
 
#16 ·
Hey Harvey Looks great, Tip on the Fluval Fx5 and the Hydor 300 in line. Take Fx5 and hydor connections parts to home depot or Plumbing store a put it together like a puzzle.

For My set up I removed the fluval ouput hose from the Fx5 to the heater mount location
Replaced that with a clear bendable hose from home depot purchased. all adapters and connectors and your all set. I also used Those hose clamps you would normally see in you car on the radiator hose, to secure all hose to adapter connections and My system has been leek free for 2 years now.
 
#17 ·
what kind of m/f ratio do you have for your stock list? ...i have a 150 gallon i will be setting up myself and deciding on stock list as well

14 Pseudotropheus Demasoni "Pombo Rocks" (2-4cm)
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lions Cove" (2-3")
6 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point" (2-4")
5 Labeotropheus Trewavasae "Chilumba" (3-5cm)
5 Cynotilapia sp. Hara "Gallireya Reef" (2-4cm)
5 Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" (2-4cm)
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the replies.

PPaulin - That is very good that it has been leak free for two years. I may now consider the hydor 300, if the rena and standard heaters are not sufficient enough.

gurvir19 - I am aware that you are setting up a 150g :thumb: Im watching your thread and look forwrd to seeing the result. I plan to have a ratio of atleast 3-4 females to every male. However i will not be sexing the dems or labs at this moment. The acei are already sexed as 1m/5f. The rest are still small so will have to sort that out as i go. The final stocking decision is still under consideration.

At the moment i have lots of developing breeding groups. I discussed the idea of having an all male mbuna, though i doubt they would all color well. I know so many enthusiasts in the UK that have tanks full of wild caught pairs. All their tanks look so natural and stunning so i may opt for that route, if i find enough eveidence that it works long term (If i do this i will not distribute or keep any fry - probs end up flushing them :( )
 
#19 ·
I really like the blocks of color and breeding behavior that groups provide. I would add Syno Multis..at least 6, for fry control. They are awesome to watch in a large group. If you are not breeding and would like a little more diversity, may I suggest 8 smaller groups. Giant Demasoni instead of Demasoni can be 1m, 2-3 Females. You can have 4-5 per group 1, 4F. I am getting out of breeeding, and will be setting up my 125, 5 ft. similarly. I am thinking Labs, Red Zebra O and OB, Giant Demasoni, Maingano, Cyno Hara, Acei, and Borleyi (which run the tank of Labs and Acei). I have all these fish in a 125 and 100 ...just will combine in to groups of 1M, 3 Female, one tank less numbers. Good Luck with your endeavor.
 
#20 ·
Hey, Floridagirl, thanks for the input. I do intend to stock synodontis, though they will not be multi's. I want to keep this tank true to Lake Malawi so i have a large group of Njassae i will put in there. In the end i should have a group of 8-10.

I am thinking of just keeping the dems in my 60g. Keeping the groups of acei and labs in the 125g. Along with these groups i may add some wild caught pairs. Everyone seems to have this kind of setup in the UK and it looks amazingly similar to images of the lake. Im not too keen on the giant demasoni :thumb: I have Borleyi in my mbuna tank too, they seem to do just fine.

Update: I went to my lfs yesterday, as the owner said he had a delivery of the rock i was waiting for. Unfortunately it as not the same kind of rock. The old rock was mined so much that they had reached a new layer of sedimentary rock. It was totally different to the ones i expected, so i am still on the search for rocks!

I have decided i will not get a juwel rio 400. I already have a juwel rio 240, so want something different. Plus you dont get much from this package deal - the tanks not too good looking, 1 heater, rubbish internal filter etc. The tank i am now interested in is the rena aqualife 450. Its taller, has two heaters, a canister filter xp3, and it looks better. But ofcourse the rena will cost more money :lol:

There is one problem with the rena tank though. The lighting is four T8's, which has less power than the juwels T5's. Has anyone got/ever had T8's? Are they really that bad?
 
#23 ·
after looking at your stock list profiles and mine......i think i may have too much blue..now i am thinking of using ur stock list and adding replacing Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" with Pseudotropheus socolofi

I swear this fish selection process is so hard! i keep changing my mind and at one point i almost switch completely to peacocks
 
#24 ·
Hahaha you dont know how many times i have changed my mind tooo. Its a very hard decision...

I bought my first mbuna - 7 yellow labs, which i still have after all these years! Then...

1) I went from mbuna and tanganyikans when i first started keeping rifts.
2) Narrowed down to just mbuna.
3) Changed the stocklist i had like 3 times.
4) Had mbuna and haps.
5) Then i started my plans for my 125g - dems and labs only...
6) Then i added a bunch of fish to that list :-?
7) Couldnt decide so bought groups of the many species that i have now.
8 ) Nearly gave up mbuna, was also about to switch to haps/peacocks
9) Changed my mind to a species only saulosi tank!!! :eek:
10) Considered an all male mbuna..

Now i just dont know what to do lol only time will telll...
 
#25 ·
Yeah... Going through that now.. You just gotta commit! :lol:

I set a deadline for myself. Tomorrow, I pick up my fish from the supplier. I'm getting 6 saulosi and 4 fish that I haven't decided on yet; either haps, peacocks, or something compareable. I'll find out when I get home tomorrow from the store.

You can try to prepare all you want, but in the end, you'll never know what'll happen till you're there. You just gotta do it, give it your all and work with what you get........ Like marriage.. :D
 
#26 ·
You said it perfectly cento. :lol:

What do you think of this stocklist:

12 Pseudotropheus Demasoni "Pombo Rocks (Unsexed)
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lions Cove" (4M,3F)
6 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point" (2M,4F)
5 Cynotilapia sp. Hara "Gallireya Reef" (1M,4F)
5 Metriaclima sp. Msobo "Magunga" (1M,4F)
3 Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" (1M,2F)
2 Labeotropheus Trewavasae "Chilumba" (Pair)
2 Metriaclima Aurora Yellow Cobue (Pair)
2 Metriaclima Zebra "Masinje" OB (Pair)
2 Pseudotropheus sp. Daktari (Pair)
2 Pseudotropheus Elongatus "Neon Spot" (Pair)
2 Pseudotropheus Elongatus "Chewere" (Pair)

8 Synodontis Njassae (Malawi Squeeker)
4 Chiloglanis Neumanni (Malawi Suckermouth)

I know there is a lot of fish but thats the point! No one fish will get a chance to claim territory, and thats what i want. I dont intend to breed the fish within this tank. I would pair them up in another tank if i wanted to breed them. Here is my inspiration:
http://lakemalawi.co.uk/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=103&t=7874&start=105
 
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