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First DIY sump

3K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  Threedog 
#1 ·
Howdy folks,

I'm building a 15 gallon sump for my 30 gallon aquarium. Yes it is overkill, but also extremely cool. In an effort to keep costs down, I cut the glass panels from some broken windows that were about to be thrown out. Also, I'll be using a 200 GPH fountain pump from Harbor Freight Tools ($10.99), and building the famous PVC DIY overflow and a spray bar. What's left to do is plumb the overflow and return, add a pump, and throw in some media and plants.

Side view:


Top view:


Where it will sit next to my display tank:


Never having built a sump before, I have some questions for you all:

-Is the Harbor Freight Tools fountain pump adequate?
-Does the return section look big enough?
-Where the sump sits in the picture, should it have enough head drop from the main tank to function properly?
-What size of PVC for my overflow should I use?

Thanks a ton! More pictures will follow once the rest of the stuff is in place.
 
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#3 ·
centrecolonel51 said:
I think for the pvc overflows to work properly the level in the sump should be lower than any part of the oveflow pipes in the tank. How did you cut the glass? I have a bunch of windows with plans to do the same thing but cant figure out how to cut the glass.
just scratch it with a glass cutter, move the short edge over the end of a table and hit it lightly with the palm of your hand and it will snap in half. Make sure you hold on the the piece you hit so it dosent hit the floor and break off.
 
#4 ·
Am about to do a DIY sump for my 75 gallon cichlid tank. Using a used 29 gallon aquarium paired with a Maxi-Jet 900. In powerhead mode, it's rated at 230 gpm, but that's with no lift, I'm sure. Specs say it's max lift is 4 feet. When doing a water change, I pumped 5 gallons from a bucket on the floor to the aquarium top, lifting 3 1/2 feet and the gpm really drops off. I raised the hose up to the 4' level and it simply quit pumping.

I am also using Lexan as the dividers and flow directors. I have never had any luck cutting glass.... always seems to cut real nice, except the one part that takes a crazy jag across my good side. Lexan is strong, won't brittle, and can be cut and shaped with a utility knife. I don't feel there is any pressure on the Lexan inside the tank vs what would be on it, holding water in.

I think the most confusing part of this whole project is the over abundance of different ways people configure these things.... what is right, what is wrong?
I believe I'll take the KISS approach... Keep It Simple Stupid.
Make 3 chambers, Water in from display tank, fed by Weir overflow box, Refugium, Water out. Divided with 2 sections of Lexan, 3 sheets per divider. Will drop the heater in the water out section to clear the display tank.

Anyway, my plan is to have the 29 gallon planted sump at nearly the same height as the display aquarium, it will be on a stand. Not real pretty, but as a first time DIY venture like this, I am all about the utility more than the finished look. I'll post a few pics when I get my materials together.
:fish:
 
#5 ·
Ok, lessons from my "brilliant" Lexan idea.
Lexan bends like a mofo. So, when I started my sump siphon up, it of course fills the In From Tank Chamber. That is the tallest divider prior to overflowing to the refugium. So, the Lexan bent a lot. Fortunately, I saw what was happening and compensated by filling the refugium to equalize most of the pressure. That worked until the divider from the refugium to the pump to tank section started bending. So, I again compensated by filling that section. Bottom line, it works as long as you fill all the sections as you go. There is a slight bow between sections where the height differential is an inch or so. Other than that, no bending. If I had confidence cutting glass, I'd go with glass, every time. Lexan was easy to cut, so all is good.
Now, I have a big clean up to do from a pump hose malfunction I had, but that is another story.
:dancing:
 
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