DIY - Projects & Ideas • overflow and drilling holes

[lilscoots]

So, I got a 90G glass aquarium from craigslist, confirmed the bottom isn't tempered and am looking to put in an overflow (weir type) and am wondering on location of the box and the holes drilled.

I've seen over flows in the center on the corners and wondered which is better/more visually appealing. I have a 75 with a 6" overflow in the corner and seems to be alright but I was going to make this one a little bigger to accommodate more water flow and thought that might take too much away from that side.

Then I thought what if I make a longer but thinner box along the back wall. For this, I was wondering what the minimum distance from the edge for drilling a 1.75" hole (glass) and what is the minimum distance b/n holes would be as I'll be drilling 3 (or 4) holes for bulkheads. I'm finding all kinds of conflicting information.

Also, when you say how far from the edge and other holes are you talking center of hole to edge of glass or edge of hole to edge of glass, edge of hole to edge of hole?

Thanks

[123vb123]

I made you a kids drawing after my wife went to sleep!

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3371/sumpa.jpg

[lilscoots]

Yeah I'm thinking the third image with an external sump and the box at a 90 to the side and parallel with the back.

Any idea how far from the edge I can drill a hole? and how far away from each other the holes need to be?

I've seen 1.5 times the hole's diameter from the edge, 2x the hole's diameter, 2x the thickness of the glass, 1 times the diameter from the edge and 2x the diameter from each other. Just trying to figure this out so I don't severely compromise the strength of the glass.

[123vb123]

On my 240g i did 3 x 2" holes, rough numbers is 2" from the edge and 2" apart.
I doubt that you would compromise the strength of the glass aslong as ur not doing a 10" hole in the middle of the tank! minimum a thumb from the edge so you dont break it when cutting.

Do you have the tools, and have you cut holes in glass before?

[123vb123]

Theres no needed for "minimum" requirements when cutting when its a 75g tank, unless ofcourse its 4 feet tall!

But please shoot your idea here before you drill, just so that im sure i didnt give u wrong info.

Regards

[lilscoots]

This is what I was thinking with the red being a herbie type overflow down to the sump and the green as the return which will go up and over the weir to outlet into tank.

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I have a model18 pump in the sump (which will have a 4' head height from pump to top of inlet pipe) All bulkheads are 1".

I'll start the leftmost bulkhead so the flange will sit clear of any silicone and then space the others by eyeball and attached plumbing.

Think this will work?

Also, I have not drilled a tank before but I've got a diamond hole saw coming and some spare glass to practice.

[123vb123]

Works yep. Although i over time have found it more usefull to place the return in the opposit side of the tank. You could get a longer hose ofcourse, you wouldnt want the dirty fishy water to mix with the clean!

[lilscoots]

I'm thinking of actually returning it to a an under gravel jet system like i set up in my 75 but i need to get it up above the water then come back down so i can put in a siphon break and not flood my sump. I realize this will cut back some of the flow but its better than flooding the tank unless I want to put faith in a check valve.

[123vb123]

I'm thinking of actually returning it to a an under gravel jet system like i set up in my 75 but i need to get it up above the water then come back down so i can put in a siphon break and not flood my sump. I realize this will cut back some of the flow but its better than flooding the tank unless I want to put faith in a check valve.

1. You will need a powerhead/pump that can pump it back up to your jet system,
2. if you need it to pump to a somewhat high altitude, get a bigger pump.
3. If you are afraid it its gone make the flow-rate slow, get a even larger pump.
4. The Dilemma with sumps is always that water "theoraticly" can run over. However, if you make the overflow inside the tank very small, (keep it less than 10gallons) you can make the sump 100% secure from leaking anywater.

(This is how 4.) - the sump must not be running while doing this and should be empty!
1. Get a sump, get a tank, make an overflow. If the overflow inside the tank can room 10g, you make sure the sump can room atleast another 15g when "full" before water will overrun init.
2. Fill up the overflow (lets say all 10g) fill up the tank (lets say 300g) make sure that the waterlevels inside the overflow and inside the tank is the exact same altitude/height, water altitude shouldnt exceed more than 1/4-½" inch higher than the height of the overflow.
3. Now fill the sump, till its about 15 gallons away from the water running over.
4. Your done! Start the cycle.

Now, if your pumps fail however, only the 10g inside the overflow will fall down into your sump, and your sump will still be able to room another 5 gallon. The water from the tank will not run over into the overflow, because you matched the altitudes earlier on (Step 4. nr. 2 and 3).

Ofcourse your watercycle will stop, but not even god himself could prevent that!

I hope this was enough to get you started.

[lilscoots]

My hole saw came today so I drilled some holes in my tank (hands still shaking I was so nervous). It's really not that bad. I came up with a different placement more of a corner overflow design. I've added a new picture with how it came out.

Red holes are for herbie overflow
Green hole is for the return
the other small holes are my planned undergravel jets (i'll work on flow direction and rate manipulation later).



Is there a way to either tint or paint the plexiglass I'm making the weir out of? It's clear but I'd like it to match the background or at least be close.

Thanks

[Rick_Lindsey]

You drilled holes for the UGJs? planning to run a closed loop system on those?

-Rick (the armchair aquarist)

[lilscoots]

Nah I drilled the holes for a sump, the undergravel jets were just put in the picture as a reference, no holes were drilled in the open part of the tank, just the three colored holes in the overflow. the UGJ will be a closed loop. I meant to say circles not holes when describing the small circles in the drawing. and it won't let me edit it anymore

[123vb123]

My man, good job. I've never see the design you drew but id love to see pictures of it.

As for the plexi, acrylic is the way. Didnt you use clear?
Anyway, one of the last tanks i did, i covered the overflow with a background, heres a link
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=243882
Inbetween the 2 backgrounds i placed a hollow pibe as "return" from canister works like a dream.

Unfortunately im selling the whole thing next week, i wanna build a real monster this time!

My hole saw came today so I drilled some holes in my tank (hands still shaking I was so nervous). It's really not that bad. I came up with a different placement more of a corner overflow design. I've added a new picture with how it came out.

Red holes are for herbie overflow
Green hole is for the return
the other small holes are my planned undergravel jets (i'll work on flow direction and rate manipulation later).



Is there a way to either tint or paint the plexiglass I'm making the weir out of? It's clear but I'd like it to match the background or at least be close.

Thanks

[lilscoots]

it's a work in progress so I've got to cut the acrylic to size and silicone it in place. I'll get some pictures up when i get a chance, Still have to build a custom stand and build a sump for it....Lots to do before it's up and running. I'll take pictures along the way to show some progression. Thanks

[123vb123]

it's a work in progress so I've got to cut the acrylic to size and silicone it in place. I'll get some pictures up when i get a chance, Still have to build a custom stand and build a sump for it....Lots to do before it's up and running. I'll take pictures along the way to show some progression. Thanks

Sure, p.m me for urgent assistance if needed