I decided to set up a grow out tank for some frontosa fry (Cyphotilapia gibberosa Zaire Blue Mikula). Had some fun with it and cleaned up an older tank that was not being used. Painted the back a dark brown, threw in some Arkansas Field Stone and some CaribSea Sunset Gold sand. Also, added my first ever live plants, two small annubias
Looking great as a grow out tank. Enriching the environment of captive animals is something popular in zoos and aquariums today. I have been trying to improve the austere barracks look of my grow out aquariums too.
I do grow plants and Anubias generally do better with all or most of their root exposed. They attach to rocks or driftwood. If I want normally rooting plants in a rift lake cichlid tank, I will plant Vallisneria. The species of Vallisneria available to the hobbyist may not be the same as the ones growing in the African rift lakes, but they usually do quite well.
As usual great pics by Razzo Front is so cute when small. I wish they can stay small so I can keep them too!
By the way, anubias will rot if its rhizome (the horizontal body that's connected to the root) is buried. Only its root may be buried. Or the easier way is to tie them to the rocks.
And after those two anubias is planted at about 1/3 from the left, it'll be a great vocal point.
Looking great as a grow out tank. Enriching the environment of captive animals is something popular in zoos and aquariums today. I have been trying to improve the austere barracks look of my grow out aquariums too.
I do grow plants and Anubias generally do better with all or most of their root exposed. They attach to rocks or driftwood. If I want normally rooting plants in a rift lake cichlid tank, I will plant Vallisneria. The species of Vallisneria available to the hobbyist may not be the same as the ones growing in the African rift lakes, but they usually do quite well.
As usual great pics by Razzo Front is so cute when small. I wish they can stay small so I can keep them too!
By the way, anubias will rot if its rhizome (the horizontal body that's connected to the root) is buried. Only its root may be buried. Or the easier way is to tie them to the rocks.
And after those two anubias is planted at about 1/3 from the left, it'll be a great vocal point.
Rubber bands or cotton thread will work, but if they are too tight, they will cut through the plant and it will break in two. I generally use Reef Gel to attach the Anubias to wood or stone. Both the roots and the rock should be damp. So I blot off dripping water from plant and support with a paper towel, then hold them for about ten seconds before submerging them into their intended site. Sometimes the Reef Gel will turn white under water for a week or longer, so be sparing with it. Reef Gel is something saltwater enthusiasts use to create artificial bases for small broken pieces of coral.
Yes, rubber bands, fishing line or cotton thread will work, and you can remove the tie after the plants attach themselves to the woods or rocks. Sometimes I also use super glue if they were hard to tie.
Sorry for my bad sentence. I hope this pics can explains it better because when people see "green" item among greyish brown rocks, people's eyes are automatically attracted to that green item. In other words, that green item serves as vocal point, and using golden ratio, it'll look much nicer.
If possible, I usually put vocal point at about 1/3 from left or right side of the tank, 1/3 from bottom.
Although for judging, these rules about art have their place, it is in sometimes breaking them that that exceptional things happen. If you like where your plants are, you can just pull them up until only the tips of a few long roots hold them in place. Or you can follow the arrow and glue or tie them to the rock.
Yes, rubber bands, fishing line or cotton thread will work, and you can remove the tie after the plants attach themselves to the woods or rocks. Sometimes I also use super glue if they were hard to tie.
Sorry for my bad sentence. I hope this pics can explains it better because when people see "green" item among greyish brown rocks, people's eyes are automatically attracted to that green item. In other words, that green item serves as vocal point, and using golden ratio, it'll look much nicer.
If possible, I usually put vocal point at about 1/3 from left or right side of the tank, 1/3 from bottom.
Thanks! Kinda funny, last night before seeing this reply, I had moved the plants to almost that exact spot. I just kind pinned them between those two rocks for now, I wanted to un bury the rhizome thingy so it wouldn't rot.
I do love the color green with fronts. It is one of the perfect colors to accent them in photos. I get sick of cleaning the the brown algae off my fake plants.
I don't get any true algae; however, I am plagued by brown algae (diatoms) and it does cover the rocks and makes them look orange in pics. I slow down the growth by sparingly using my tank lights. It does brush off easy though. I am about to do a deep cleaning on my 125. I soak the boulders in scalding hot water to kill th bacteria and then brush it off. Inpurchased some wire brush for my drill and I plan to aggressively wire brush them soon.
Yes, rubber bands, fishing line or cotton thread will work, and you can remove the tie after the plants attach themselves to the woods or rocks. Sometimes I also use super glue if they were hard to tie.
Sorry for my bad sentence. I hope this pics can explains it better because when people see "green" item among greyish brown rocks, people's eyes are automatically attracted to that green item. In other words, that green item serves as vocal point, and using golden ratio, it'll look much nicer.
If possible, I usually put vocal point at about 1/3 from left or right side of the tank, 1/3 from bottom.
Thanks! Kinda funny, last night before seeing this reply, I had moved the plants to almost that exact spot. I just kind pinned them between those two rocks for now, I wanted to un bury the rhizome thingy so it wouldn't rot.
I do love the color green with fronts. It is one of the perfect colors to accent them in photos. I get sick of cleaning the the brown algae off my fake plants.
I don't get any true algae; however, I am plagued by brown algae (diatoms) and it does cover the rocks and makes them look orange in pics. I slow down the growth by sparingly using my tank lights. It does brush off easy though. I am about to do a deep cleaning on my 125. I soak the boulders in scalding hot water to kill th bacteria and then brush it off. Inpurchased some wire brush for my drill and I plan to aggressively wire brush them soon.
When I used silica sands, I got a lot of diatoms and had to brush and siphon them weekly. After I read that diatoms are caused by excess silica, I replaced the silica sands and never have diatoms again.
I don't get any true algae; however, I am plagued by brown algae (diatoms) and it does cover the rocks and makes them look orange in pics. I slow down the growth by sparingly using my tank lights. It does brush off easy though. I am about to do a deep cleaning on my 125. I soak the boulders in scalding hot water to kill th bacteria and then brush it off. Inpurchased some wire brush for my drill and I plan to aggressively wire brush them soon.
When I used silica sands, I got a lot of diatoms and had to brush and siphon them weekly. After I read that diatoms are caused by excess silica, I replaced the silica sands and never have diatoms again.
Yep, diatoms feed on silicates. My nitrates are low so that possible source in minimal. I am not sure if CariSea's Sunset Gold or Aragamax sands have silicates??? I have got to the point where I just think my source water is just favorable for diatoms.
Brown algae (diatoms) do use silica, but even if you don't remove the silica sand, after a while the solubles are virtually gone and the diatom problem ends. Or at least is replaced by a green or red algae that does not need silica.
Brown algae (diatoms) do use silica, but even if you don't remove the silica sand, after a while the solubles are virtually gone and the diatom problem ends. Or at least is replaced by a green or red algae that does not need silica.
Yep, diatoms feed on silicates. My nitrates are low so that possible source in minimal. I am not sure if CariSea's Sunset Gold or Aragamax sands have silicates??? I have got to the point where I just think my source water is just favorable for diatoms.
Not all Cyphotilapia get those big humps. Zaire blues from Mikula are known for having the smallest humps of all Cyhotilapia. Here's a somewhat recent pic of the father of those fry. This is Tau, the 11" alpha male in my 240 gallon tank. Not much of a hump for an 11" gibberosa aye?
Update on the 40 gallon long grow-out tank: they are doing well and getting bigger. I started with approximately 30. I sold off a group of ten to make a little elbow room for the rest. My goal with this tank is to get some nice pics using the remotely triggered overhead flash.
For any fellow camera junkies, here are my settings:
Shutter speed: 1/160
Apature: f/22
ISO: 100
Focal distance: 24.0mm (images 1 & 3) and 11.0mm (images 2 & 4).
Fantastic grow out tank Razzo, really looks the part! and of course great photos as always :wink:
I'm about to set up a grow out tank for Calvus and Cyps all being well, fed up with always watching the cyps holding only to never see the fry(aside from once, and then was only briefly) and currently have Calvus eggs saved in a net.
Won't be as impressive as yours though that's for sure.
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