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shell placement

4K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  Vincenzo 
#1 ·
Should shells be grouped in one section of the tank or should the shells be scattered? Will shell dwellers live as a community or do they prefer some space between them?
 
#2 ·
What are the dimensions of the tank?

Some shell dwellers are harem breeders so you can have more of them in one tank without any problems. Others lean more toward trios or quads with only one male and multiple females.

Which species are you considering mixing?

I tend to spread the shells in small groups around the tank and if I see more is needed, I add more shells.
 
#4 ·
I have no experience with mixing shell dwellers in an aquarium so maybe someone else can offer some suggestions. The general rule for this setup would be a substrate dwelling fish, a rock dwelling fish and an upper water fish. Having 2 substrate dwelling shell dwellers would require you to have a sight break such as a large rock structure that would separate the two different species some what.

You could always check out the 55G Cookie Cutter setup in the Library articles to see some recommendations but definitely post your potential stock list before buying any fish so we can help you fine tune your choices.

If you want, I can move this post to the Tanganyika forum for better suggestions.
 
#9 ·
Only put 1" of substrate in a the tank. Too much sand can cause Nitrate problems. Plus, they will move it, and Multies and Similis don't like sand, anyways. Brevis and Multies, Or Brevis and Similis should work. Multies and Similis are too alike to put in the same tank. For Brevis, a larger Whale eye shell, one for each pair of fish. The female and male will share the same shell. Place these on one side with 75-100 on the other side for the Similis or Mulites. Multies will colonize more quickly, but Similis are a little rarer to find, if that helps you choose. You could have a group of smaller Cyps in with them as well, or some like to use Rainbowfish for the top portion of the tank.
 
#10 ·
The substrate is Caribe Sea authentic african cichlid mix. Followed instructions to add 1 lb/10 gallons. It's not sand. It's a mix of crushed shells. I would estimate that 75 percent of the substrate surface area is rocks. I added the substrate after placing the rocks in the tank. What I was hoping to do was create deep caves. The tank is set up. Doing fishless cycling. At nitrite monitoring now. I could remove some substrate with a siphon. But I will monitor daily. I should be able to control nitrate with water changes. Obviously things will be different once I have fish in the tank.

I have Japanese bonnets in there now. They are about the same size as whale eye. Plus I have 3"tun shells.

Thanks,

Vinnie
 
#12 ·
Floridagirl,
You said in your post "multis and similis don't like sand, anyways." Was that a typo? Well it's too late to change the substrate now. It would be easier to remove the shells instead. I could take out the top layer and either crush it finer, it's only broken shells, or replace it with sand.

Zimmy,
Yes the substrate depth is around 4 inches.
 
#13 ·
They don't like sand around their shells. The will dig it out and the babies will hide in the spaces between the shells. You will not see this behavior with substrate other than sand. An inch is plenty of sand coverage. This behavior is interesting to watch and not going to happen with the current substrate. If you are keeping what you have, I'd really suggest going to 1-2 inches deep. 4" is asking for nitrate problems as I previously posted.
 
#15 ·
Floridagirl,

I understand now what you were explaining to me. By placing sand around the shells, the shell dwellers will move it because they don't like it around their shells. got it.

Let's talk about Lepidiolamprologus. Do they mix well with either brevis or multis? Or should I just start out with one genus? If so which?

Will there be any problem if I add two synodontis lucipinnis? I have read they could be attacked. I also heard that the synos will eat fry, but I won't have that issue for a while.
 
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