Woo! it's done! I am kinda sad that my overflows could not be concealed (which was the reason I undertook this process anyway), but I can't have everything I want in life! :x Still, I am super stoked about the result of all my hard work. Once the Trophs are in there, no one will look at the overflows anyway! :lol:
Don't mind the broken door on the stand.... a little damage occurred during delivery because this whole setup was so heavy It will be fixed!! haha
I like your rock/ module work, but why couldn't you cover your overflows?? As soon as I'm done with my 40 ( which is my guinea pig on making modules), I will be making some modules to cover my overflow in my 112. How many coats of drylok did you use?
Well, hubby didn't want anything obstructing water flow to them. I realize we could have cut out holes so water could still go thru, but he just wanted them left alone.
My first coat of Drylok was mixed with undiluted Quikrete liquid color, which made it super thick, so I only put about 3 more coats after that.
Also, we're not planning any other filtration besides the sump, so he was afraid the water quality would have been poor with them being partially blocked.
I would have rather had them covered, but I'm pretty happy with the looks of it overall, so that's what counts I guess Hehe!
Well, Jayse, after I mentioned your comment to my husband, we discussed covering overflows, and that's exactly what I'm going to do! So, THANKS! lol!! I'm going to build some rocks to meet up with the side rocks to leave enough space to conceal canister hoses (if we need to insert one for better filtration)
I think I will be MUCH happier having one solid rock background. Those overflows would have just kept nagging at me to be covered... haha
You'll be thankful you covered the majority of the overflows.
However as is right now, final product looks great! I know you had a lot of headaches along the way, but it really paid off and the end result turned out nice.
So, the overflows are not flat. How could I go about siliconing the styrofoam to them so that it's enough to hold them in place? I am planning to attach the overflow pieces onto the rocks that sit next to the overflows to help secure.
So, basically, part of my rock is going to be "hanging" there, unless I load that space up with silicone, since it won't be seen anyway.
Lol... well I'm glad that my question might have swayed your hubby. I've seen some overflows covered before that looked fine and owner said they worked onobstructed as well. I've seen two different ways, one was the styro going just up to the top of the grooves for the overflow, and just left flat. The other the person actually took the time and work to cut grooves, etc. Honestly by looking at your pics, it doesn't look like you would even notice where the overflow grooves start. You have the black spaces between your rock modules, and it should pretty much look the same with the black plastic from the overflows, just like there's nooks and caverns behind your rocks.
I think you'll be much happier with the overall look once they're covered.
By the looks of your overflows they are the type that are only slightly curved on the front facing. Your styro should be able to hold even if only siliconed on the frontal part. Can't wait to see more pics.
It's a great idea to silicone the overflow rocks to the framing rocks. As Jayse mentioned, if you can, add silicone to the overflows as well .The more points of attachment- the better.
The problem with cutting grooves into the Styrofoam is that organic matter will actually get trapped within the grooves due to the course texture of the Styrofoam. Obviously it can be done but it's also time consuming. So to ease potential overflow issues and save time, it's best to stop the rocks just below the line. Most people will not even notice it, regardless.
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