Properly wet out cloth shown at left. Note that it is transparent with no white areas.
After letting this coat cure for few hours I trimmed the cloth at the top. The resin was hardening up, but still pliable, making it easy to cut. After this coat it was smooth sailing, the hard part was over. I applied 4 additional coats, allowing at least 4 hours between coats. This happened over the span of a couple of days. I coated all inside surfaces, including where the glass would be glued and the exposed plies at the top.
It is recommended to scuff sand with 80 grit sandpaper between coats to ensure good adhesion if the resin has cured for longer than 8 hours. I was careful to not touch the resin with my bare hands to avoid getting oils on it and sacrificing adhesion.
I also added some home made bulkheads on the back for the 2 canister filters. Next time I will find some real bulkheads because the PVC parts are rather bulky.
Here you can see the oak 1x2 trim and the top. Most tanks over 33 gallons have a center brace. My idea was experimental, so I advise using a center brace in your design, unless you have some building or engineering experience, or you don't mind taking a risk.
Filled with water, the center of my tank bows out about 2mm. I have had this looked at by my nephew who recently earned an engineering degree and was reassured that this was fine. I used 3/8" glass which is good for up to 24" high. Since my water line is about 19" high, I have a little extra insurance.
When choosing glass for your tank, remember the general guideline that 1/4" glass is good for up to 18" in height, 3/8" is good for 24" high. I am not an engineer, therefore I am unsure about how this relates to the tank capacity, or how long the tank is. If you build a 300 gallon, 8 foot long tank that is 24" tall, you may want something thicker than 3/8" glass, that is why I recommend researching everything thoroughly before building your own tank.
The only thing left to do here is add the glass. I used 3/8" non tempered glass and had the edges arised to avoid cutting myself. I had the glass cut so that it goes all the way to the edges. Then I put down a fat bead of sealant and carefully laid the glass in the tank. I then put some weights on it and ran another bead around the edge. It was a messy task, but the tank does not leak a drop. I used about 3 tubes of silicone to seal the glass, the joints and around the top. Stock up on the silicone because you don't want to run out in the middle of this task. Estimate what you need and buy 3 times that amount. If you don't use it all you can always return it.
It took a lot of discipline, but I waited a full week after installing the glass to fill it with water. I then left it full of water for another week to make sure it would not leak and to help leech out anything toxic from the epoxy.